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FAQ

General Questions

What are clan crests?
What is Tweed?
What is the difference between Harris tweed and just tweed?


Tartan Questions

What is the history of tartans?
Did the Welsh or Irish have clan Tartans?

Kilt Questions

What is the difference between pleat-to-sett and pleat-to-stripe?
What is the history of the Welsh Cilt?
What is the history of the Irish kilt?



Q: What are clan crests?

A: In Ancient Times, a Chief wore in battle a distinguishing badge on his helmet, a device which his followers could recognize in the turmoil of action. This is known as the CREST OF THE CHIEF and appears at the top of his Full Coat of Arms. Anyone bearing the same name as a Scottish Chief is a Clansman of the Chief and has the privilege of wearing his CREST surrounded by a STRAP AND BUCKLE GARTER to denote his Clan Allegiance. The great Scottish Clans contain families who bore a different surname but were descended from the Chief through the female line. They are called SEPTS. Therefore anyone who has an ancestor bearing a Sept name or the Clan name itself has the privilege of wearing or displaying the Crest Badge and indeed only they may legitimately wear this authentic Scottish Ancient Device. Scottish Clan Crest Badge are approved by the Standing Council of Scottish Chiefs.

Q: What is Tweed?

A: According to Wikapedia.com, tweed is a rough, unfinished woolen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is made in either plain or twill weave and may have a check, twill, or herringbone pattern. Subdued, interesting color effects (heather mixtures) are obtained by twisting together differently colored woolen strands into a two- or three-ply yarn. Tweeds are desirable for outerwear, being moisture-resistant and very durable.

The original name was tweel, the Scots for 'twill', the cloth being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. The current name came about almost by chance, according to a tale recounted in Windsor Revisited, written by HRH the Duke of Windsor. About 1830, a London merchant received a letter from a Hawick firm about some tweels. The London merchant misinterpreted the handwriting understanding it to be a trade-name taken from the name of the river Tweed which flows through the Scottish Borders textile areas, subsequently the goods were advertised as Tweed, the name has remained so ever since. Tweed, also according to the Duke, was a favourite material of both his grandfather King Edward VII and his father, George V.

Q:What is the difference between Harris tweed and just tweed?

A: Harris tweed can only be called Harris if it is woven on the Isle of Harris, Scotland, and they charge a hefty premium for the name. It is really no different, excepting that a couple of the mills do have some nice herringbone designs, etc.

There are many different qualities of tweed. Unfortunately, it is difficult to tell the difference, and there is no such thing as a "standard" tweed. We use a couple of different mills that make tweeds which we believe are an exceptional value for the quality. They are tight woven tweeds with an excellent twist in the yarn.

 

Q: What is the history of tartans?

A: According to the Scottish Tartan Authority, originally the word "tartan" described the way the thread was woven to make the cloth: each thread passed over two threads then under two threads, and so on (what we refer to today as a twill weave). This gives tartan its distinctive appearance. Unlike a conventional check, there is always a square where the two colours of thread cross creating a speckled blend of the two colours. Tartans were most likely not a Celtic invention. The Chinese are thought by some to have invented tartans over 3,000 years ago! See also: http://www.kilts-n-stuff.com/Celtic_History/tartan_history.html

Q: Did the Welsh or Irish have clan Tartans?

A: The clan designs of Scottish Tartans have a long traditional history, but there is little historic evidence of clan named tartans in Wales or Ireland. However, tartan weaves were common in all Celtic and many other cultures.

Q: When did the clan tartans came about? I heard they where only 300 yrs ago, but I thought They where always there. What is right?

A: Plaid fabrics have been woven by many cultures for many centuries. In Scotland, until the late 1700's, people simply wore whatever the local weaver was making. The concept of a family tartan became fashionable at that time, and the first tartans were officially recorded in the early 1800's with the formation of an official Scottish tartan registry. Today that registry is maintained by the Scottish Tartans Authority.

 
Q: What is the difference between pleat-to-sett and pleat-to-stripe?

A: Pleat to sett – each pleat is positioned so that the pattern (sett) appears to continue through the pleated portion of the kilt.
Pleat to stripe – we choose a prominent stripe in the pattern and center the stripe down the middle of each pleat. This is a traditional military style, and can look very nice. Some tartans just don't look good pleated to stripe however. If you choose this option we will let you know if it can't (or shouldn't) be done.

Pleat to sett (left) vs. pleat to stripe (right)

Q: What is the history of the Welsh kilt (spelled cilt by the Welsh)?

A: According to the Welsh Tartan Athourity, the Welsh wore fashion akin to kilts two thousand years ago, probably with a form of leather trousers or leggings wrapped around with rope. This form of dress remained a feature of Welsh society confirmed by the discovery of a 9th Century stone carving depicting a man wearing a kilt. This evolved through the centuries into the woollen garment we are familiar with today. Initially this would have been made from raw coarse wool and undyed.

Customer Marion V. Ernst wrote to us with this information:
I have in my possession a Griffiths tartan outfit that belonged to my Grandfather Foster Lewis Summerfield. It is the old style Griffiths tartan and my grandfather wore it probably around the age of three, about 1895 or a little earlier.
The John Lewis, Mary Ann Griffiths family came from Llanarth, Wales about 1850 so obviously knew about their tartan colors even then. I am the seventh generation since they came from Wales.


Q: What is the history of the Irish kilt?
A: The existence of Irish kilts has been debated for some time. Here are links to two different views on the subject: http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/IrishKilts
http://www.irishthunder.org/irishkilt
We feel that Irish kilts are a great way of celebrating your Irish heritage. Irish kilts are becoming increasingly popular, and it's no wonder - everyone agrees that a good lookin' Irishman looks even better in a kilt!